Sunday 30th June.

Missoula to Lochsa Lodge  58 miles  (46 in Montana and 12 In Idaho)

    I left Missoula early because I new it was going to be hot. For the first 10 or so miles I had to retrace my steps, then I turned up to follow the West Fork Lolo Creek, up to the top of the pass. I have crossed over to the other side of the Bitterroot Mountains, and entered a new state and a new time zone. I am now in Pacific time.
     The area is forested. There are huge red cedar trees and they smell like the wooden chest your grandmother kept her best clothes in. After the pass, it was downhill alongside the Lochsa  River. Because of the heat and the fact that there are no services for the next 66 miles, I stopped at Lochsa Lodge. Here you can camp for free and it is a lovely spot.However, you have no alternative but to eat in their restaurant - not a hardship - looking out on those trees is stunning.
     I have been down to the river, and have been sitting on a rock with my feet in the water. Have also had a beer with my neighbours in the chalet next door. Their husky dog is sitting on the porch.

Sat. 28th June

Rest day in Missoula. I have eaten my way through the first farmers market by the river. Visited the second craft style market and eaten again in the third organic market.  This is a great university town, with West Coast USA vibes. People are swimming in the river, cycling and skateboarding on the cycle paths. Drinking organic juice in the cafes.
    I am staying in a large house in the university area. Two of the occupants are jazz musicians and there is a grand piano in the main room plus a drum kit.  The town is over run with deer which have adapted to urban living (a bit like foxes in London). They have no predators. So I have in a very, very, small way assisted in putting up a fence around the vegetable area in the garden.
     Most of the afternoon I have been snoozing - a real rest day!

Friday 27th june.

Wed. 26th June  Dillon to Wisdom-  8 miles.

   Before I arrived in Montana, I associated the state with horses, cattle ranches and wide open

spaces. It has all of these things. BUT- there is also fishing. Everybody I have met goes fishing. I can understand why. The rivers are clear and inviting. A fishing licence for non Montana residents is 70 dollars per year. The rivers are full of trout; most get returned to the water alive. In the campsite last night, next to the Beaverhead River, were fishermen. The rod I am holding was made in Twin Bridges (I cycled through there yesterday), and is worth over 800 dollars.
    The morning began with a climb over two passes. I was relaxing in the sun at the bottom of the first, in a remote area, when I opened my eyes to see (I think the name was Sculy), standing over me. He is one of the competitors in an 'underground' cycle race which is taking place along the length of the rocky mountains. The route goes from the Mexican border to Banff in Canada. Tracking of riders is by gps signal and they can race from either direction. We are talking real hard core here- these guys are isolated for days and are carrying minimal equipment. The guy I met was in 5th place as we spoke, but rain has taken out some of the northern bridges, so that might change things.

The other event in the area is a large 'Rainbow Gathering'. This is expected to be upwards of 28,000 peace loving hippies/ new age travellers / alternative lifestyle followers, all camping out on forestry owned land to the west of the small (population 38) town of Jackson!!! I read in the

local paper that locals are worried about thieving, trespassing, dog theft, and nudity.

I had to cycle through Jackson (I had been warned that everything had been shutdown so  could not stay there). When I reached the town, there was no sign of anybody, but a cattle truck driver stopped me, and told me to go into the bar/café  -open to locals and apparently cyclists! There I did my farming talk bit  - I mention how few dairy farms there now are in Scotland because of the poor price they get for their milk, I talk about potatoes. I get given a free drink, and I  leave before  my lack of knowledge is exposed!  No pictures for you, but the farmers/cattle men are wearing jeans, leather chaps over them, leather waistcoats, cowboy boots and Stetson hats.

I reach Wisdom after 6 P.M. only to find a coach load of Rainbow people, and  a possie of sherriffs' cars. The RV park I was going to camp In appears closed. I go into the local bar/pizza café  My bicycle is whisked in and safely stored in the back, away from the 'dangerous' people outside. They are having a meeting in the community centre.  A Rainbow couple came in , they were served I spoke to them and I spoke to the locals. I was seated at the bar as buffer between the two. Camped down at the legion park, in the shelter, which had mosquito screens. There was another cyclist there travelling the opposite direction to me.

Thursday 27th June Wisdom to Hamilton 78 miles

Only one pass today, and my final crossing of the continental divide (there have been 8) A great cycle down through the  Bitterroot valley to Hamilton. Here I stayed with Tim who is an emergency room nurse, and Sophie who is a 14 rear old retriever dog.  Tim had been working  the previous night, the first Rainbow casualty had come through, a woman who had her finger badly bitten by her pet rat.! (Cassie ,Tim's wife was away on a course). I was put to work chopping vegetables and in the evening Tim had friends round and he cooked great pizza on the barbecue. We then watched a very strange film called 'Stoker',starring Nicole Kidman - not for children.

Friday 28th  Hamilton to Missoula  50 miles

Tim made me pancakes before I left, then it was a continuation down the Bitteroot Valley to Missoula. The river which I first saw as a trickle is now large. I went to the Adventure cycling headquarters, was given my free ice cream, and had my photo taken.

I love Montana.I think it is just a bit like the Borders area of Scotland.  Westerners, however first came to Montana because of gold. The capital Helena was initially a gold mining town. Copper is/was also mined, and a lot of Irish settled in the Butte area. Hamilton, where I stayed, was a planned development by the local 'copper baron'. The result is a grid town with irrigation system. Sophie likes to get into the irrigation ditch which runs through her garden.

If I lived in Montana I could quite happily spend an afternoon standing in a river looking at the mountains, but doubt I would catch any fish to throw back.

Ennis to Dillon.  75 miles

   Today began with a 2,000 ft. climb. I began cycling early and reached the old gold mining town of Virginia City by 9.A.M. The town is made up of old clapboard houses, which are now gift shops, ice cream shops and the like.
      I then cycled on to Twin Bridges, were I used the library wi-fi to Skype Mum and Keith. I was on the phone when a rather eccentric local cyclist came and hovered over me.  Robert 'insisted' I go home with him for a pot of  darjeeling tea. I must say it was the best tea I have had since being in the U.S.A.. He gave me some to take away.  He also made me a salad. There was a very nice looking bit of cooked salmon in the kitchen, but that was given to the cat, not me.
   I then had to cycle another 30 miles to Dillon into the wind because I had arranged with Ed. to be at this campsite. Have been out for a very authentic and cheap Mexican meal served in an old bus. There are another couple of cyclists who have just arrived, they have not been cycling for long and are attempting to work out how to put up their tent!

Monday 24th June.

I have now left Wyoming. A place of extremes.

      Very hot and very cold.

      Arid desert and huge areas of wilderness forest.

      Some of the best and worst scenery.

      Some terrible towns and Lander, my favourite town so far, of the whole trip.


I have also left Yellowstone National Park. A great place which would best be explored on foot using the hiking trails. The roads through the park are not wide, and there is a lot of traffic. RV's swing cars behind them, motor bikes roar past and there are endless bus loads of Koreans and Japanese sightseers.
The park is, however, very well managed and I could not fault the facilities provided.

I did see a wild bison, but to my relief, no bears.

Monday 24th June  West Yellowstone to Ennis 71 miles.

     What a great ride- the wind was behind me! WELCOME MONTANA . I cycled faster up hill than I was cycling down hill last Friday.  The volcanic landscape remains. I passed Quake Lake, formed after an earthquake which devastated the area in 1959. The dying trees are still visible in the water.

    Ennis is a small tourist town. There are lots of real estate agents, the Gravel Saloon Bar.  The Float Bird Hunt and Outdoor shop (lots of fishing tackle and guns), a small whisky distillery and loads of ice cream shops.
    Tomorrow I have a very large hill to climb, and my direction of travel changes. So I hope the wind remains in my favour.

Sunday 23rd June.

Grant Village to West Yellowstone   53 miles (50 in Wyoming and 3 in Montana)

     I met Ed, another cyclist yesterday  evening ( previously met him in Pueblo Colorado) and today had a kind of sight seeing day. Not difficult when cycling through Yellowstone. The day began with a climb, but then we descended to 'Old Faithful', a geyser which erupts and lets off steam (which turns to water)  about every 80 mins. It was then a cycle down the valley of the Firehole River with thermal activity all about. We made a detour to see the Firehole.
     Am now camped in the RV park at west Yellowstone, and have entered Montana.

Sat. 22nd. June.

Coulter Bay to Grant Village.  42 miles
    This morning I was tired.  I had not recovered from the wind and climbing of yesterday. So I had a walk by the lake before cycling out of the Teton National Park and into Yellowstone Park, the first one to be designated as such. I am now cycling through an area of immense forest, lakes and rivers. There is also another large hill, and yet another crossing of the continental divide.
       I stay again in the hiker/biker section of the campsite. It is the highest one I have stayed in and this morning my tent was covered in frost.

Friday 21st June.

Dubois to Colter Bay Village 67 miles

   I dreamed about bears. The evening before I spoke to a man in an RV who had just passed a grizzly bear and her two cubs on the side of the road, near the top of the pass which I have to cross. He, felt he had been brave when he wound down his window to take a picture.
            I DO NOT HAVE A WINDOW
            I AM ON A BICYCLE
            I DO NOT WANT TO MEET ANY GRIZZLY BEARS
The day began with a 30 mile climb to the top of the 9,658 ft. Togwotee Pass and the second highest point of the trip. There was an amazing rock formation in front of me, which looked a bit like a Spanish castle at the top of the mountain. Then it was another cross of the continental divide, before 17 miles downhill. As is often the case in Wyoming the wind was against me, so I had to pedal at times.
     The view in front was spectacular. The snow clad Teton  mountains were in view. I then entered the Teton National Park and wilderness area. I had to buy a 12 dollar pass which covers me for Yellowstone as well.  A flashing neon sign said.  Give way to cyclists and wildlife!
    I camped in the hiker/biker section of the campsite. This is always at the back, along way from the shop and visitor centre. Everything edible or smelly (soap etc) is put into a bear  proof box.
      This is a large, very well managed tourist site.The shop is excellent, selling fruit bakery products and energy bars. Coulter Bay is on Jackson Lake,and you look across to the mountains on the other side.

Thursday 20th June.

Lander to Dubois.  75 miles   

     A fantastic cycle ride, with some amazing scenery. I began by heading up into the Wind River Indian Reservation. The first thing that appears is a large casino to the left, with free parking for RV's in case you want to play the slot machines with breakfast. Then through the Indian town of Fort Washakie. They had a very nice shop where I had a cup of coffee. People were speaking in their native language. The craft shop next door was not yet open but I expect it would have been an ethically correct place to buy souvenirs.
      The scenery just got better. The Wind River has formed a canyon through the rocks, so there was red stone on each side. Also passed great rock formations. A lot of horses grazing, plus cattle been herded by people on horseback.
     I am staying in the expensive campsite at Dubois, but it does have an indoor swimming pool which I will go and use. Also, there are grizzly bears which live in the area but unlikely to come into town. - in case they do I have my pepper spray handy!
      I  forgot to say yesterday that Lander was the home of Butch Cassidy. I could imagine the 'Hole in the Wall' gang hanging out in the area I cycled through. I did not, however, see either Paul Newman or Robert Redford!.

Wed. P.M. pictures of past three days.

 Lander is a great town. I have had a good look at the main street which has a lot of small shops and I have brought a new book to read from the second hand bookshop. I have also been round the (free) pioneer museum.
     The museum was very good. The covered wagons were first called sheep wagons, because they were used by shepherds. They were introduced to the country by the Basques from the Pyrenees at the beginning of the nineteenth century and had wooden wheels with metal trims. It did not take long for manufacture of these to take place in the states. A more hardy version was made from hickory wood  which had been seasoned for five years, and which had metal wheels. There were also some Indian tapestries, which had bead work.The 'canvas' was deer hide. Outside were log cabins; initial homesteads which had been moved to the museum location. The museum was cared for mainly by volunteers.
    After the museum I went to Safeway. Going to the supermarket is a major treat! Here I met a Belgian couple and their 2 year old daughter, who are cycling from Los Angeles to Canada. I had passed them yesterday. We had a picnic lunch together, and will be meeting at the micro brewery early this evening.
     Tomorrow I resume my cycle ride and will be cycling through an Indian reserve.

Wed. 19th. A.M.

Monday 17th Saratoga to Muddy Gap.  87 Miles

   Nobody could call this the most scenic day. Wyoming is sparsely populated and therefore has very few roads. So today included a stint on the freeway (motorway) which is legal and is part of the official route. Then it was past the Sinclair Oil Refinery, and along side the railway tracks, to the service town of Rawlins. I did find a very nice café were I had lunch and a huckleberry ice cream.
    I would call the next road an 'A' road-traffic included many trucks. It ascended up into arid, desert like scrub of sage and sand. There was a 12 mile section of road works. There are wild horses in the area but I did not see any.
     Camped outside the petrol station come shop at Muddy Gap. John an ex-marine who was mountain biking some of the dirt trails was also camping. He spent the evening telling me all about his marital problems. Did not sleep well, as trucks travelling the road most of the night.


    Tuesday 18th June Muddy Gap to Lander.  83 miles
        More semi desert sage and sand. More wind. However left the 'A' road at Muddy Gap, so then got onto a nice road. I am now on the Oregon Trail. Diaries of these early settlers lament the lack of trees in this area. They were travelling 12 miles a day, I have done the section in two.
     I went past Split Rock which served as a navigational aid to early pioneers and which are some of the oldest rocks in the area. I later passed Sweetwater Station, a welcome source of water for those early pioneers. Coaches from Salt Lake City, passed me yesterday, this is because I am also crossing the Mormon trail, and they visit the site at Sweetwater.
      There were no shops or cafes for the whole section today. This is because I passed through Jefferson city without stopping exactly as I had been advised! Jefferson City was a uranium mining town, but the mine has closed. It is a modern day ghost town. The relatively newly built secondary school is empty and closed, the prefabricated houses are rotting, and the café/bar was not inviting.
      My last 20 miles of the day took me past spectacular red rock formations, and I descended down to Lander, a great town, with cafes and camp sites and museums. I also met up with Gay (support van) , and her cycling husband again. We had a pizza together last night. I am going to spend a day here to rest up and am camped in the Sleeping Bear Ranch Resort.

Sunday 16th June.

Walden to Saratoga.    67 miles  (22 in Colorado and 45 in Wyoming)

     Tonight I am staying in Saratoga. It is a pleasant small town. The road I am travelling along goes right through the centre. On this are (amongst other things) a lumber merchants', taxidermists, 2 petrol stations which sell food but no fruit, "Grandma's Café" - which looks closed down and the "Sage and Sand Motel" in which I am staying. At right angles to this is Main street on which can be found the Black Rock Arts Centre and the Hat creek Country Store. I peered through the window of the store, and they sell lots of cowboy style hats, cowboy boots and cowboy stuff etc. At the edge of town is a dollar store (a bit like our Poundland ) were I brought nuts and dried fruit.
        There is also a river, plus hot springs. The hot springs are free to use. So I did. The first pool was very, very hot and the second pool was not warm enough. I had expected to camp here. However, as I came out so did the wind  and I could hardly stand upright so I made for the motel.
      To get here I cycled through cattle ranch country and passed the Wyoming border. I also passed Gay again with her support car and Ian from Warrington who is cycling from West to East, as is Kevin who I also passed. It is good to talk to these cyclists as you can swap experiences. For example, when I reach Jefferson City (about 2 days away), I am to cycle straight through it! I must under no circumstances visit the bar/café as they are very hostile to cyclists. Good to know!
      I have not seen any live moose, but did see elk in the distance.

Pictures Sat 15th June

Sat. 15th June 2013

Hot Sulphur Springs to Walden. 68 miles.

     Another pass to climb today, but this time the wind was behind me and I enjoyed the 20 mile cycle up the quiet road to Willow Creek Pass (9,621ft) and another crossing of the continental divide. Much of the area was covered in dying native pines. Drought has made the trees weak and the Colorado pine beetle is killing them. To my left was the Rabbit Ear Range.
       At the top of the pass I met a really nice woman, ( I can not remember her name) who was acting as support driver for her husband who was also cycling this route. She was pulling a caravan.
      Then as I topped the pass the wind changed and acted as a brake as I descended to the Hamlet of Rand. This very small windswept place had a shop selling gifts, books and maps, all very well laid out- not sure how much trade they get!. There was also an old dilapidated building with the sign 'Rand Yacht Club' above the door. I have only seen small reservoirs, although cars have passed me pulling boats - so I might be missing something.
        For the 22 miles from Rand to Walden the wind came at me from all sides, making cycling a bit of a slog. BUT, I had a support car - I never did meet the cycling husband - but sat with his wife out of the wind as she leapfrogged past me several times whilst waiting with her cyclist's next snack!
      Could not face the tent in the wind so have booked into motel. Done my washing, and been to a café and eaten pie.       Tomorrow I should cross into Wyoming.
So, OBSERVATIONS ON COLORADO......

Car number plates are coulorful but cars are often dented and belch out smoke

There are a lot of moose in the area, but I have only seen their heads stuck on café walls

Everybody has a dog.

Motorcyclists do not always wear helmets

Wind can be a cyclists' best friend or their worst enemy

It is very hot in the afternoon, but gets cold at night

I have loved Colorado: the hills, the wide open spaces and the people

Friday 14th June

Blue River Camp Ground to Hot Sulphur Springs.  48 miles

    Cycling through ranch country; real 'City Slickers' style country- but have not seen 'Curly'.  I cycled through  a canyon to get here made by the Colorado river. Not the Grand canyon, but very impressive. High red rocks on each side and the river below.
     I stopped here because the sign said 24 hot sulphur pools and I could nor resist. You pay to go in, a bit like a swimming pool, but then you have 24 different hot pools to wallow in: some very hot and some very small. Have had a very relaxing afternoon. Am now camping for free by the Colorado River.  Tomorrow will have to put in  more mileage!

Friday 14th June 11.A.M.

Thursday 13th June- Fairplay to Blue River campground. 48 miles

    I cycled over the 11,542 ft Hoosier pass and continental divide. This will be the highest point of my trip. Although as I am now travelling north, I do criss-cross over the divide again. The views were stunning and I was looking down on snow capped peaks.
    On the other side I entered ski country - a bit of a culture shock- breakfast cost me twice as much as the day before and was only half as good! Breckenridge was a French Alpine style ski resort with a bit of gold town clapboard frontage thrown in. There is a gondola, cycle paths, plus loads of shops and tourists.
     I cycled through a further two ski towns, and then my route took me alongside the Blue River. I camped at a forestry run site with no wi-fi. So I spent the late afternoon sitting on a rock in a shallow part of the river with my feet in the water, watching a family fishing. The son, who looked about 12, caught a fish but released it back into the water.
 " NOTE  Dogs antagonize bears please keep them on a leash at all times"!

Wed. evening

I am camped in the RV park, very close to the centre of  Fairplay. This is not due to the tourist office, who seemed to have limited knowledge of campsite locations. They sent me down a dirt track to the reservoir, a place I would not want to spend the night on my own. At the RV park I have spent the evening with Janice and Tom, learnt all about gold panning in the area, and been given a meal in their camper van. Plus the promise of a cup of coffee before I leave in the morning.
       The fires persist, and I was lucky to get through yesterday. Mark and Julie have been given a lift to Guffey- 57 miles via a vertigo inducing dirt track, as the tarmac road remains closed.
    I am in my tent.There is a river behind me,  Sounds around me remind me of the Lake District. It is very relaxing and I should sleep well.
  

Wed. 12th June.

Tuesday 11th June. 80 miles from Pueblo to Guffey.

     I started early to avoid the heat, working my way up through the base of the Rockies. I had planned to camp at Royal George, known for a famous suspension bridge over the gorge. To that end I left the tourist trap of Canon City and started a 7 mile climb. As I progressed I was overtaken by fire engines, sherriffs' cars and the like.  By the time I reached the campsite I had expected to stay in, I could see lots of smoke and the fire was 5 miles away on the other side of the canyon. I could go back or go on, so I went on working my way uphill for a further 20 miles!  I had to flag down an RV for water. They were towing their car. The road I had passed was now closed and the area being evacuated. It was a long and hot day!

Wed 12th 42 miles to Fairplay
   A great cycle.Went over Current Creek pass 9404 ft. high (but had done most of the climb yesterday) Then cycling through alpine style country. There are trees, the creeks have water in them and I have seen wild deer. Also had a great breakfast at Hartsel en route: 2 eggs (cooked over medium) biscuit (which is a scone), venison sausage and toast.
        Will have to find somewhere to stay here, before the biggest climb of the trip ((Hoosier Pass tomorrow) The scenery is stunning and the mountains are covered in snow.