Friday 31 May

A zero mileage rest day in Pittsburg.
  Tomorrow I will have been cycling for 4 weeks and have cycled over one thousand and five hundred miles.
      I have spent the day resting (I fell asleep for 2 hours this afternoon) and visiting the Laundromat - which, of course, was at the other end of town. I walked down the main street called 'Broadway' to reach it.

There are a lot of empty shops plus lots of pay day loan places and pawn shops. I did find a second hand bookshop -however, it sold mostly cowboy stories and romantic fiction and Stephen King made up the 'classical section'! I was excited to find that my motel is next to a yoghurt bar but I would class what they sell there is really just ice cream! Thundering again outside but will be back cycling tomorrow.

Pictures from Thursday 30 May....

Thursday 30th May

Wed, 29th May 75 miles Hartville to Ash grove.

    A typical day cycling, I get up at about 6.30 am and pack away my tent. I have a drink of milk and eat a banana. I cycle, I like to ride for about 15 miles in the early morning before it gets too hot. Today it had to be longer because there were no services before Marshfield, about 25 miles away. The rollers continue, but it is a nice ride through arable country. I pass a couple of Amish farms; see horse and cart. USA towns are strung out, so as I approach Marshfeild I pass car dealerships, farm supply outlets and a string of other warehouse style businesses. The town center houses a courthouse, library, insurance services, but no food shops. This one has a cafe and I have coffee and a roll. Then it is more cycling with frequent stops for drinks (gatorade). As I tire I start to push my bike up steep hills, of which there are plenty.The churches I now pass are brick built and have neon signs outside. Then it is time for the next campsite, this time in the city park at Ash grove. Ash grove is not really what I would call a city- it is a small and very pleasant town with a large park in which children are playing sport. There is a small swimming pool, toilet block with shower.

 I meet Tom and Jana here, but there is also another cyclist who has a key to this building in the park in which we are allowed to stay (which was good as the weather not great in the night). After a shower, I go to the local grill with the others for a meal. Now I eat all my burger and fries with no problem.
I am shattered and asleep by 9.30.


Thursday 30th May.  Ash Grove to Pittsburg, Kansas 70 miles  (67 in Missouri about 3 in Kansas)

     This is not a typical days cycling. The weather forecast is not good,but the morning is bright. I enjoy my cycle, I do not mind when the rain starts, or even the thunder, but speed up to the 'city' of Golden City (that is the town's name) when lightning strikes about 10 meters in front of me. There is a great cafe called "Cookies" in this small town. It serves excellent pies. I have a piece. (Pie is a big thing here and I shall be eating a piece most days). The rain stops but it is only 12.30 am and there is nothing to do here, so I  cycle on to the much bigger town of Pittsburg.   BUT-  the thunder and rain begins again.The sky is alive with it .  As the lightning strikes, I make for a house with a porch . Joel was great, I stayed with him and his wife Kimberly until a glimmer of bright appeared, and then cycled the final 12 miles to town, crossing the Kansas border on the way. I am now holed up in a motel for 2 nights as the forecast is awful for tomorrow  - more tornadoes whizzing about. I will also add that Joel did offer to drive me and bike into town, but I resisted the temptation. Another incredibly kind couple.  I loved Missouri.

It is really great to get your comments and know people are reading this if anybody wants to leave me any....

Wed.29th May

Monday 27th May 60 miles from Johnson's Shut-Ins State Park to Alley Springs.

Tuesday 28th May 75 miles from Alley Springs to Hartville.


Two days of hilly but great cycling through the Ozark mountains. Have met 2 cyclists coming the other way! One who started in San Francisco on April 24th. Last night camped in the park by the river, with Tom and Jana, who are also cycling the route. We could have camped on the town house lawn if we had preferred.
        There are a lot of skunks and racoons about (National Park instructions state) YOU MUST NOT FEED THE SKUNKS AND RACOONS- THEY ARE PESTS. I have also come across crushed armadillos on the road plus crushed leather back turtles which are very large.

Sunday 28th May

Farmington to Johnson's Shut In's State park.  40 miles with add on's

I began by cycling to Walmart to stock up on supplies. Then it was initially a busy road out of Farmington before a great cycle up a valley to the Black River, which has its source in the Ozark Mountains. I went to the national park visitor centre, and am now camped in their walk in area. so well away from the RV's. I have also been sitting in the river on the smooth rocks, but it was too shallow to swim.


                                                   SOUND

Throughout my trip sound has been with me. Sometimes it is the distant rumble of traffic on a freeway. My favourite time is the early morning when the countryside is waking up. I hear the birds in the woods and frogs croaking. I think I hear wild turkeys (there are plenty but I have not seen any). But maybe I just imagine that.
       As the morning progresses I hear people. The Southern twang has gone and there is now a Midwest drawl. It is holiday time and I hear children, sometimes they wave to me as I cycle past. The music too has change now cars pass playing rock music as well as country. One past playing the Rolling Stones ("Start Me Up")
       I hear gun shot to the left and 2 deer run for their lives to the woods on the right. I speed up - fast over the hill into another area.

Sat 25th No 2

Today  87 miles.  42 in Illinois and 45 in Missouri.

I have crossed over the Mississippi river by bridge. I am and will be for the next couple of days,  travelling through the Ozark Mountains. I am staying in a cyclists' hostel in Farmington.

Saturday 25th May.

On Friday 24th I cycled 65 miles from Eddyville to Murphysboro.

    A better day in Illinois- downhill for a bit. I had not realized how far I had climbed the day before. Then I met Simon again (with his Dawes Galaxy bike) plus a very thin American lad called Marcel. The coffee shop we met in gave us each a free bit of pie and took our photos - they will remain on the wall for every passer by to view! The lads were faster than me but they were sitting in a Macdonalds as I approached a horrible jumble of roads on the way into Carbondale. Marcel then navigated us into a bike shop in town and my bike got new brake blocks.
      I then cycled a further 9 miles with Simon and we camped on Tabitha's grass (American cycling host). This was very kind of her and her husband Elliott as they had 4 young children including a baby of three months. Elliott gave us a beer - the Illinois shops have alcohol in them!

Facts I learnt...

1. If you do not keep your garden tidy and mow the grass the town council fine you $250 .
2. Illinois produces a lot of coal but it has a high sulphur content so most gets exported to China!

Thursday 23rd May

11 miles to the ferry over the Ohio river, then 35 miles cycling in Illinois.

Most of Illinois is flat but not the part I have to cycle through. The hills were awful- up a steep gradient for 200 ft. then down, then up again and so on. Plus a lot of traffic as it is the beginning of a big holiday weekend. I am staying at a campsite at Eddyville which is packed with horse boxes and RV's. Cassie would love it.Loads of horse riding trails.
     

I did however enjoy crossing the Ohio river. I saw a large amount of coal being transported up stream.

 

Weds evening

70 miles to Marion

Am staying in the Methodist church. Upstairs in a very comfortable sitting room. Church is downstairs, so is the church hall which is being used for an exercise class I have just been out for a Mexican meal with Simon, a young cyclist from Brighton - who will travel much further than me tomorrow. Plus I managed to find a shop which sold some fruit.
      Some good roads today plus some busy ones. A lorry pulled up in front of me and the burly driver jumped out, I thought I had done something wrong, but no, he was rescuing a turtle from the other carriageway!
      I am finding it hard to have a break when I cycle. Every time I stop, people talk to me ,and want to know everything about me. "Wow your from Scotland and your travelling through Clay" (the name of the town). Good thing I know something about farming as all the men want to know what crops we plant and when etc etc.

Wed 22nd May

Monday 20th May.  68 Miles to near Hudson.

Tuesday 21 May 70 miles to Utica,.

Now cycling through Western Kentucky. Should cross the Ohio river into Illinois tomorrow. Rolling farmland with some big dips which means a hard slog up again. Fields opening out a bit like East Anglia. On Monday a couple of Amish families passed me in their horse and traps. Others were parked outside the hardware store.

A story About Monday night.

         My map indicated a campsite and hostel. I have done over 60 miles cycling and I am ready to find somewhere for the night. This is farmland I am passing through  and somehow not the area I would expect a campsite to be. Suddenly a man mowing the grass waves his arms at me to stop- (people are always mowing grass here). I stop. There is a large ramshackle barn by the side of the road with some long disused gas pumps. The 'barn' has a veranda along the side. I am taken inside an icepop is thrust into my hands - I have difficulty opening it. To the right are some tables and a TV is on. Lauren is looking at the high school graduation photos in the local paper. To the left is a kitchen area with a cooker; oven does not work but the hob and grill does.
       Behind is the shop. It has everything in it: tins of soup, nails, washing powder, mouse traps etc., etc..At the back is a store cupboard through which you can just squeeze (and I have not put on weight) to get to the surprisingly good shower. This is the campsite and hostel.
       I put up my tent on the veranda. The family are fantastic. They love passing cyclists. For tea they cook hamburgers, boiled potatoes, black eyed beans and sweetcorn, which they have grown themselves.  Apparently the Amish who live in the area, often call in. Lauren says that the kids like to watch the soap operas on the TV. Sometimes there is an emergency visit when they need to use the cell phone to call for the midwife!
 What did they charge for this?  Nothing! Lauren is about to start her teacher training so I hope that if she wants to travel and visit Scotland she will stay with us.


      The next night I stayed in the fire station. There has been a hurricane which hit Oklahoma badly, and poor weather was forecast, so they did not want me to camp outside. Yes, there were 6 fire engines all with Davies County printed on them..

sunday !9th May

49 miles to Bardstown. Camping in park next to a children's play area and there is a big golf course nearby. Now having a trip.to the launderette to wash my clothes..  Great cycle through rolling farm land today.  I passed the Lincoln homestead, where Abraham Lincoln lived until the age of nine. His mother then died because she drank milk which had been poisoned by some kind of root the cows had eaten. Normally there is a charge but the curator gave me a ginger ale to drink instead! The wooden buildings were authentic and there was a little museum, but fortunately no large visitor centre.

      Bardstown where I am staying is the centre of the USA whisky industry and I passed bonded warehouses on the way into town. I think bourbon is made here, but have not (and will not be) going on any of the tours to confirm that.

Saturday 18th may

54 miles to Harrodsburg. That did, however, include a detour of 3.5 miles down a 4 lane highway to check out the playing fields, where I could apparently camp. This turned out to be large area filled with teams playing American football so did not seem right for a tent. For the first time on my trip I am staying in a motel. It is not expensive and does mean I can charge up my electrical gear.
          Harrodsburg appears to be the county town for Mercer county in Kentucky. It has  large buildings, built of brick, many with columnbs at the front.There, is a large judicial building and law courts. The brick library appears to take up about 4 times the space of our local Inverness library, but being late on Saturday afternoon, was closed.
      Have had a walk around the town and eaten an enormous salad in a trendy cafe.

Friday 17th May

I am now in Berea in Kentucky.

      On Weds 16th I cycled 71 miles from the Breaks Interstate Park, a woodland area with walking trails, visitor centre(closed), swimming pool, (closed) and campsite hidden out of view of everything else, to Hindman. 71 miles of main roads, 700ft. climbs, switchbacks down and hot humid weather; it was in the 80's.
      Thursday was 65 miles to Booneville. Similar terrain, but not as hot.
Today was a better, more scenic 49 miles to the college town of Berea. Have cycled for most of the past three days with Garry and Earl, which has made the climbs easier.
      I have been passing through coalmining regions (as in the song "Coal Miner's Daughter"). Except that the recession has hit and some of the areas I have cycled through are really poor; the houses are clapboard, with porches and corrugated roofs or else trailer homes.There are a lot of kids on the porches and dogs in the yards.
     Weds night did however stay at a fantastic place run by David for cyclists in Hindman. For some unknown reason it was called the Knox Historical Centre. David greeted us with iced earl grey tea, gave us a fantastic meal (could not finish my icecream, but the cats ate it), and put the washing in the machine whilst I pitched my tent. I cannot thankyou enough David. It was a fantastic end to the worst days cycling on the trip!

FACTS I HAVE LEARNT

People mow their grass to keep the snakes away - there are rattlesnakes in the area.

Gatorade is produced at a plant near Wythville (through which I have passed) using water from the Appalchian mountains. I drank three bottles one day!

Some of the areas in Kentucky are dry (no alchol allowed)

Kentucky cars only have number plates on the back - not on the front.


      Am now off to find a place to camp.

Tuesday 14th May

Yesterday I cycled 55 miles to Davenport, which included 2 very stiff climbs. On the way to the first of these I passed two guys who are cycling the route with a support van. Result- at the top I got given a tuna sandwich and a banana from their support driver. Support driver (Sorry, cannot remember your name), came from Motherwell and since coming to the States has lost 40lbs and lowered his cholesterol and blood sugar! - if you know Motherwell, that says it all.

                                                     

          Ended up camping behind a filling station at Davenport on the way down from the second climb, along with another cyclist (who works in a psychiatric unit). It was exceptionally cold and tents were covered in frost in the morning. I have only cycled 12 miles and am outside the library in Haysi. This is a very friendly small place: writing is slow going as I have to talk to everyone going in! However, the sun is out and I am warming up. Am making this a very short/rest day and only aiming for another 15 miles to the Breaks Interstate Park, before entering Kentucky tomorrow.
       Past couple of days have been real red neck country- everyone drives pickup trucks, plays country music, and folks are just real friendly!

     Did travel on one main road for a couple of miles yesterday, I saw 1 dead badger, 1 dead fox, sadly a dead turtle (looked like a tortoise), a dead black thing with a fluffy tail which was large. And this is for my niece India.... a lot of dead grey squirrels which when dead look horribly like large rats - its the tails when the fur goes!

Sunday 12th May

60 Miles to Damascus The one in west Virginia, not the capital of the Lebanon. A great ride through fantastic scenery. The terrain remains very hilly. This place seems a bit like Scotland's Aviemore 20 years ago: stop off point for people walking the Appalachian trail. Plus it has lots of mountain bike routes. Shuttle services take people to the start of the Virginia creeper trail and they ride down.(Please note I passed their start place which means I had climbed to 3000 ft)..
    I have been following the American Adventure cycling route - which, if you have been able to follow my direction, you will see is anything but direct! I have been travelling south. I think the Virginian tourist organisation must have had a say in the route! 2 more days and I should be leaving Virginia and verging west. The route does, however, avoid as much as is possible the main 3 lane highways (I have crossed over some big ones) and take me through some great scenery. So I am just following the maps.

Saturday 11th May

On Friday I cycled 64 miles to Radford. It was a lovely, but hilly ride through the Catwaba hills and valley. It was hot, I normally drink just water, but today also had a 'power drink' with a luminous red glow. By the time I reached Radford the sky was dark and thunder could be heard. The rain poured down and I hid under the awning of the Methodist church. So I telephoned Mick, somebody who has never met me or knows anything about me, but is a cyclist. He came out, picked me and bike up with his car. Took me to his beautiful home overlooking Claytor lake, where he and his wife Lee, fed me, and put me up for the night. Plus and it is a big plus, they took me with them to Floyd for an evening of Southern country music. Each Friday evening people come down from the Appalachian mountains (and a lot of other places)  to play music and dance in the country store. Highlight of the trip so far.

    Today I had a late start and a very comfortable lie in bed. Then Mick dropped me back at the Methodist church, in light drizzle. I met 3 young lads fro the UK cycling the same route as me (had seen them yesterday as well) -they had to spend the wet night in a motel, and there was only a smoking room left which they did not like. I also met 2 retired men from Pennsylvania who are also cycling the route.

Sarah, Garry Kehr, Earl Groat and cyclists from London.

They had arranged to stay in the church in Whytheville for the night, and arranged for me to do the same.The result is that I am writing this in the drawing room area of the church hall where I will sleep. I have just returned from the minister's home where he and his wife have let me use their shower and fed me. The 2 Americans, one of whom is also a clergyman are staying in the minister's house. There has been an AA meeting taking place in the room below, but I think they have all gone now. I will have to leave early in the morning before the 8 am church service!

Thursday evening

cycled 62 miles

I am camping at the Bethel campsite (owned and run by the brethren) just before a place called Troutville. Have been having my evening meal- I obtained most of the ingredients  from the organic shop in Buchanan. Watching the deer come out of the woods. I am the only person camping, but there are people staying in some of the cabins.
     On the way here the road was still flooded in places after the heavy rain, but tonight, so far, it is dry. It is now dark and all the night sounds are of insects making a noise. Plus there is a lot of water flowing down the stream .It is very peaceful.

Thursday

Yesterday  I cycled 60 miles  from Charlotsville to Versuvious, gradually working my way up into the Appalachian mountains. passing some great spots, including my coffee stop at Wyatts Store which has been running since 1886. Pouring with rain for much of the day, but on the plus side colder weather makes the cycling easier. I reached over 3000 ft. but climbed more as a lot of downs as well. Last night camped for free behind Gerties shop in a water logged field. All these old shops are made of clap board and the interiors look like 30's film sets! Whilst I was putting up my tent Gertie's grandson (I expect Gertie is long gone) did me a grilled chicken sandwich and fries (plus I had a beer) So my nights' stay with food cost 10 dollars.
   Today have, cycled through Lexington home of the Virginia military (got a bit lost and had to back track) and am now sitting outside the library in Buchanan before looking for a camp site. Have travelled occasionaly with local cyclists who ride with me for a while before speeding up and heading off. One was definately a candidate for the CTC group- retired but bemoaning the fact that his voluntary work kept him from cycling as much as he wanted. The Appalachian walking trails are all maintained by volunteers like himself.
    Thank you for all the messages.

Tuesday 7th May

Last night I was camping for free behind the fire station. No facilities except a loo and washbasin. The only shop was attached to the gas station and had NOTHING in it of any nutritional value. So to eat I went to the cafe , which means burgers. I can not remember the last time I ate a beef burger!.  Anyway it came about 2 inches thick with prime beef, cheese, iceberg lettuce and tomato, plus various dressings. I am sure that it was probably one of the best burgers you can get - but give me my vegetables and fish anyday! (food chart I ate three quarters)
       When i got back to my tent the fire engine was called out, so i was told I could use their shower while they were away. Torrential rain in the night, plus very noisy- the railway track was close by and very long goods trains passed in the night hooting loudly in a USA train way (like in "My Cousin Vinnie").

    Today only cycled 53 miles into Charlottesburg and a hostel,as still pouring with rain. Yesterday I passed through old tobacco estate land with clapboard houses,and wooden Baptist churches every five miles. It felt very Southern. Today have been passing vineyards and brick Baptist chapels. A lot of ups and downs.

Monday 6th May-  67 miles to Mineral.

Now on Trans American route.Great cycle: quiet roads, lots of wildlife-herons, deer, scores of squirrels and crows so big they looked like buzzards. Camping for free at back of Volunteer Fire Station tonite.

Saturday 4th May.

I had to get the bike shop to fix the front pannier racks on in the end - but no charge, and lynn took me there by car, then she took me out to lunch. then we went to the movies in the early evening.

      Saturday started cycling, first 26 miles into Washington along  the W and OD cycle path an old railway line. It was packed cyclists joggers, joggers pushing baby strollers rollerskaters. Not an overweight American in sight. Then it was another scenic cycle route along the ever widening river to Mount Vernon, George Washington's country estate. After that it was roads. I am following a cycle route but this did include a very busy highway. It also took me through a military base. Man at Mount Vernon who took a photo for me was sure they would not let me through, but they did. It was like a mini town so big I nearly lost my way.
     Then it was a long route out of built up areas. I cycled 75 miles in order to break free  - and find a campsite. Only to find that this campsite just took pre booked groups. but they let me put up my tent no charge.

Sunday 5th 71miles
      Cycling through countryside, lots of horses, plus houses with mail boxes at the end of there drives. A dog did run out at me, but it was only a beagle  who looked like Toby and wanted to say hello. Cycled through Fredricksburg, sight of a big civil war battle. Lush and green (not like Culloden) but sad as well.
       Have met Emily cycling down the East coast she is heading to North Carolina, so we will part ways tomorrow when I turn East. However are sharing pitch at campsite tonight.

Friday 3rd May

Have reached washington, but not yet unpacked bike. Great plane journey, I had three seats to myself so could stretch out. The Icelandic air inflight magazine advertised a tapas style bar serving smoked puffin in blueberry sauce, and minkie whale with cranberry and malt jus I just changed planes in Rekyavik so fortunatly was not tempted to visit.
        I was met by Lynn and her shah Tzu dog. Have been well put up by her and the cats. Have emptyed closets for the decorators, and taken dog on evening walk. Must now sort out bike and plan to start cycle tomorrow.