Monday 8th July

Sumpter to Mount Vernon.  66 miles.

    I got up at 5 A.M., and began cycling in the cool of the day. A real treat as I climbed up into the Natural Forest. I did two climbs before breakfast. then the third and highest at  5,277 ft. Dixie Pass. The roads are great and the ups and downs well graded, so a bit of a treat. However, I am now in hot, arid land again!
     I have been meeting other cyclists. First Lorna and Bill heading in the opposite direction to me. They were collapsed in the shade half way up Dixie Pass and that was their first climb of the day! ( I was descending from my third). Then I met Natt in a town called John Day - we had apple pie and ice cream in a café,. then Natt headed out with me to this great cycling hostel., Phil, (Australian) who I last saw very early on in Virginia, appeared. We have had a pasta meal together, plus a beer. The hostel is run by Christy, who also organises local bike trips. A  great place!

Pictures from Sunday

Sunday 7th July

Baker City to Sumpter    37 miles  (includes cycling around Baker city trip to retail park and the like)

     So the day began with another flat tyre. I pumped it up and it was fit to ride, but not fit to take over the next set of hills. I thought I was stuck for the day. I go into a very nice café, sit in a soft chair, listen to the music and have a coffee and chocolate brownie. Well not exactly. First I enter the café, am asked about my trip, then find myself assisting Zac to change my tyre again. He even goes home to get his proper pump. Then I have the coffee etc, Zac has to go to work at the bar over the road and I go to Bi -Mart on the retail park to buy new inner tubes. I then return to the café (now my home for the day), have lunch, relax.
     Later in the day I cycled the 27 miles out to Sumpter to put in some mileage before climbing hills tomorrow. Sumpter is a lovely place to stay.  I am camped in the garden of the Stockade. It is an old gold mining town, once home to an opera house, three news papers ,and  fifteen saloons. Today the population is 140. There is a restored narrow -gauge railway, with a steam engine. There are the ruins of an old dredging mine. Everything is nicely restored in an authentic way.
      A very  good day. which just goes to show that you never can tell what will happen!

Sat. 6th July.

Halfway to Baker City.  53 miles.

    My tyre was flat again this morning! I knew I had not got enough air in with my hand pump. Anyway, this time I went to the local garage to try and use their air supply to pump up my tyre but wrong kind of valve. However, they did telephone Bill who works on bikes (and also volunteers in the local museum) and he got  my back tyre sorted.
     It was a late, hot start to the cycling day. The rest of the hill was fine, but then I was back down and down again into the canyon. Actually a nice ride. I am just not cut out for the heat. I crossed over the Powder River at the bottom of the canyon. Then it was up to irrigated farmland, then up and over Flagstone Pass.  It was from this arid hillside that those early settlers saw their first glimpse of the fertile land ahead. There is a visitor centre but a mile up hill, off route, so sadly I gave it a miss.
     Then into Baker City- an old gold mining and supply town. I hit the first campsite and now found that my front tyre was going flat. Changed the tyre but it is flat again this morning! (which must show that I am not good at sorting out punctures). I met the three Surrey lads again. I think they have had several punctures since arriving in Oregon.
   NOTE TO CYCLISTS: DO NOT PUT YOUR BIKE IN FRONT OF THE WELCOME TO OREGON SIGN! ( I am convinced I picked up sharp debris there causing me punctures).
    

July 5th.

Cambridge Hot Springs to Halfway.  59 miles  (31 in Idaho and 29 in Oregon).


   The day began with another climb. I have kind of planned it that way, because if there is a big climb ahead, I like to do it in the cool of the early morning.  After the climb, it was a very long descent out of fertile farmland into Hells Canyon. The deepest canyon in the USA. (not bigger, but deeper than the Grand Canyon). Before reaching the bottom I stopped for breakfast in a café/local store/fishing supply shop.
      I actually enjoyed this canyon. A very scenic route followed two dams and the resulting lakes and the Snake River. I did however get a puncture. I think it was when I wheeled my bike to put it up against the "Entering Oregon" sign, to take a photo.
       At my lunch spot/ Skype Keith spot, who should appear but the three lads from Surrey with their matching tops. I saw them briefly in Pueblo and before that in Virginia. On the hill up out of the canyon they passed me with ease!  I am camping at the town of Halfway, which means that I am out of the heat of the canyon but have the rest of the climb for tomorrow morning. I f you look at the picture of the typical Idaho farm barn you will see my tent to the left.

     

July 4th

Riggins to Cambridge   82 miles.

   I have now been cycling for two months. I do not, however, think that is why today is a public holiday and American flags are on display.  I began with an uphill cycle out of the Salmon River canyon, but it was gradual. I began early, there were clouds in the sky, and very little traffic. After about 12 miles the forest began, and it was a beautiful ride, to New Meadows, were I had coffee, and then on to Council.
        I spoke to 2 forest rangers, and then went down into the town (of Council) to watch the events. The chief event seemed to be the porcupine race. I watched the last couple of heats and then the final. The porcupine is in a bin which is then upturned and removed at the race start, the porcupine is then encouraged forward with a broom. A bit like the sweeping action used in curling. I am not sure that the porcupines enjoyed the event.
      I then went to check out the food stalls  - hot dogs--not for me, however I found home made fayre including cherry pie in the senior citizens centre.  ( I think run by the equivalant of the W.I.).
    I then cycled on to just before Cambridge, to stay near hot springs. This place has a swimming pool, a few chalets and an RV park, although I can only see one RV, I am camping. It is a bit like a farm which has a tourist side line. I have been in the pool, which was just the right temperature.

Tuesday 2nd July.

Stites to Riggins.      67 miles

    The first time in the whole trip, when I nearly gave up!!!      It has been boiling hot! and iced water in my water bottle has become bath temperature after 40 mins.

       I knew that it was going to be hot, so started early. Yesterday's downhill had left me at low altitude in the bottom of a canyon, so it was over 2,000 ft. to climb up onto the prarie plateau.

I cycled up the wooded gorge and was passed by at least 10 truck loads of timber. I was also passed by Chris, a Dutch cyclist whom I had very briefly met back in Kentucky (he has been cycling around the glacial national park, as an extra). We had breakfast in Grangeville, back in taxidermy land where the walls were decorated with animals' heads.

      It was then up and over the pass. I missed the turn off to follow the old and scenic Route 95 but the main road was fine. The sherriff spoke to me at the top and informed me that it was very hot for the time of year. A long steep descent meant I lost all the height I had gained and then I  reached the Salmon river, which descended into another canyon.  I did stop in the middle of the day, had a swim in the river and a siesta.

     

I had  about 24 miles to reach Riggins, where I had promised myself an air conditioned motel room for the night. BUT THE HEAT....!  For the first time on the trip I did not think I could make it. I reached this layby with sign, covered in sweat  - my cycling gloves could be rung out! and I actually thought about hitching a lift into town. But, Chris appeared, bleeding and battered. He had taken the correct route but falling rocks had caused him to fall off his bike. (some nurse me- I did not even have steri strips in my first aid kit). He told me that clouds were appearing, to take it slowly and I would make it. Chris was way ahead of me despite his injuries, but I did make it. Passing  an unexpected fruit farm store helped.

     Staying in the Riggins Motel, which I chose because it had a laundry, but which also happens to be a great place.  It is an original 1946 motel, and a "listed building". I have a little sit down area with table and chairs outside my room. A fridge, microwave and coffee maker inside - the last doubles for me as a teapot and I have been drinking the excellent Darjeeling tea which I was given about a week ago.

          I am having a recovery day! No way did I want to start cycling at first light again. This is a holiday rafting town. I might swim in the river. then first thing tomorrow it is another long climb up out of the Salmon river canyon.

I HAVE DECIDED THAT I DO NOT MUCH LIKE CANYONS!